Saturday, April 30, 2011

Warts and all ...

Since I'm trying to keep this as honest as possible (so I can look back and see how much progress I've made in a couple of weeks or months!), I will admit today was a rough day with a few bright spots.

I woke up feeling sort of in a funk.  I was pretty anxious about the allergy symptoms I'm experiencing - a slight rash on my face - I saw my doctor about it in Chicago before I left and it had gone away.  I was feeling pretty hopeless about a remedy because everything is different here - the detergent I wash things in, my sheets, my towels, the water, etc.  So I decided to go to the pharmacy to try to get hydrocortisone cream for my face and for my itchy bug bites.  Every kind of medicine is behind the counter in a pharmacy here, so you have to talk to the pharmacist to get most medications.  The plus side of this is that pharmacists can actually give you medication that normally requires a prescription in the US, and for many things, you can just go to the pharmacy instead of to a doctor.  Anyhow, I went in and explained to the woman what I wanted.  I wrote down "Hydrocortisone" and said I didn't know the word in Spanish, but this is what I wanted in English.  She looked totally confused and I managed to pull the word for "itchy" out of nowhere and showed her my bug bite.  She immediately understood and came back with a little box of "hidrocortisona" - not sure why "hydrocortisone" so confusing!  Anyhow, she gave me instructions for how often to apply it and sent me on my way.

I then made my way to the yarn shop which was totally packed.  But I found some beautiful green merino wool yarn, and a pair of circular knitting needles I wanted for a project I'm hoping to start soon.

Finally, I went to the grocery store.  After today, I've realized I either need to shop exclusively in the smaller shops, or try to go to the big shop when it's not the weekend.  It was packed.  And the lines at the meet and fish counters were long.  I was about halfway through the shop when I was looking for cleaning supplies and suddenly I got panicky.  I'm not sure if it was a full blown panic attack, but it was awful and I felt like I was going to pass out.  And/or die.  Not that I'm dramatic at all.  I managed to calm myself down pretty quickly (I sort of crouched down in an out of the way area and tried to breathe deeply - it worked).  I continued on with my shopping but I was still feeling pretty anxious and really, really frustrated with myself.  I just couldn't understand why I was so panicky - nothing in particular made me more anxious than normal (although I'm sure the crowded store and my general anxiety about speaking Spanish didn't help).

I eventually made my way home, made myself lunch, took a nap, watched tv and read.  I spent a lot of the morning sort of beating myself up for not going out with people today; although, now that it's rainy I'm happy with my choice.

In retrospect, I'm also pretty proud of myself for making it through today.  I did a lot of scary things (talking to the pharmacist, for example).  So, I panicked a little - no big deal, right?  I'm sure my morning anxiety did nothing to help me.  Hopefully, if it happens again, I can keep myself calm.  And if I panic, I'll survive.  I'm fine and feeling totally normal now, so I know what to do if it happens.

In other news, I watched some Spanish television - most of what I've seen so far is horrendously bad.  There was a show that is sort of like Jerry Springer.  I found the Spanish version of Ugly Betty "Yo soy Bea."  They also had the tv movie about Prince William and Kate Middleton dubbed into Spanish.  It's really trippy watching dubbed things because the actors mouths are no where close to being in sync with the audio.

Finally, the power went out very, very briefly this afternoon.  I used that as an opportunity to reset the clock on my oven (which I couldn't figure out how to reset).  But now the oven isn't working and seems to have no power.  So tomorrow will require a visit to the doorman downstairs.

Sorry for being a downer today - hopefully tomorrow will bring a more sunshine-y day all the way around!

Errands

I had a lot of fun last night and got to meet a lot of new people.  I'm a little sad because the guy who was leaving (another postdoc) and his girlfriend both seemed like really nice people. It's really too bad they're leaving!

Today is going to be errands day.  I was thinking about going to a cider festival and then a music festival with some friends - but it's supposed to rain in the evening, so being outside for a festival doesn't sound great to me.  Plus, I've been having some allergy issues since I got my bug bites (plus another lovely bite on my cheek).  Since allergy medicine makes me sleepy, I think I'll just rest tonight.  I think that these are the same allergy problems I had right before I moved, which make me think that they're a combination of stress and environmental stuff like trees, etc.

But today, I'm going to the big grocery store and I'm going to try to check out the yarn store that's nearby.  If that doesn't take me too long I might also go to the home store nearby to try to get some sheets and something with color for my apartment.

I'm a little stressed about cooking here.  I'm still having a pretty hard time finding ingredients to make things that I cook at home.  I'm going to try to go through the grocery store slowly today to find what I need and want.  Hopefully, I'll find some new things and be able to make things that aren't variations on lemon/caper/olive sauce + meat/fish/pasta.

I also really need to find a shopping cart/bag that will make it easier to schlep all of my stuff home from the grocery store.  It's really the only time I miss having a car here!

Friday, April 29, 2011

Success!

I left my house at around 8:30 this morning and made it to work before 10.  I walked about a mile and a half to the bank and spent the whole time practicing conversation for the bank.  I practiced saying, "The ATM took my card.  A woman at my job told me to come here and get a new one" in Spanish.  I practiced saying, "Also, I wrote the wrong signature on the website and I got locked out of my online account!  Can you unblock it for me?" 

I got there and everyone was pretty busy, but I finally got a guy to help me.  I asked if he (or anyone there) spoke English and told him my Spanish was terrible - but no luck there.  I launched into my spiel about the ATM card and he asked if it was a machine in that place that took my card. And here was the real test.  I had to say things I hadn't practiced.  I told him that the woman at my job had called them, and they told her that they would have the card for me.  So, he went into an office and voila!  My card!  It was the actual card that the ATM had eaten with my signature and everything.  We tested it to make sure it worked and it does.  The guy asked me if I needed the ATM translated to English, but then said my Spanish was good enough he thought I would be okay in Castellano.  So now I do all my transactions in Spanish ... I can always change it later if it's too hard. 

Then we moved on to the internet issue - he fixed everything for me there and we tested the key (though not the signature - so hopefully that works).  I had a good combination of Spanish I had practiced and improv Spanish, but he understood everything I needed and was very helpful.

I honestly feel like if I can do this, I can do almost any face to face interaction.  I think the phone would be way harder, because it's harder to understand in both directions.  Fortunately, they're not huge on phone based customer service here, so I should be able to survive.  Overall, I'm feeling so much better about the whole language barrier/culture shock issue.

I am not very good at patience or at making mistakes, and my time here so far has tested both of those things pretty substantially.  Today demonstrated to me that I need to be more patient with myself (a constant struggle) and to be willing to make mistakes.  In a weird way, if I hadn't totally misunderstood the entire banking system here, I wouldn't have had a chance to practice my Spanish today.  While I was practicing my Spanish, I know I made about 4 billion mistakes, but I survived.  No one yelled at me or laughed at me and the guy understood everything I needed.  So, the next time I need to practice, I'll be a little less scared.  And maybe I'll leave this whole experience actually speaking real Spanish - which was one of my big goals anyhow.

Between this excitement and all of the exciting things getting started at work, today is one of the days when I feel like "I can do this!"  I'm sure I'll have more "What am I DOING here?!?" days, but it's nice to feel like I might be able to succeed!

Wish me luck ...

I got bitten by twice by a (or multiple?) mosquitos last night.  I just killed a mosquito that was buzzing around my place, and it squirted tons of blood all over my hands.  Probably my blood.  Jerk mosquito.

And I woke up super, duper nervous about the bank.  This does not bode well for my ability to actually say things in Spanish while I'm there.  That's what a dictionary is for, I guess.  I need to just go be a grown up about it.  Wish me luck!

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Like Magic

Today was magically much, much better than yesterday.  I had a great day at work and started to figure things out more in terms of logistics.  One of my new friends taught me how to load my bus card with tickets - I chose the monthly ticket since you only have to ride the bus 44 times to pay for it - and if I go to work and back every day for a month, I will ride it 40 times, so I think it's definitely going to be worth it.

I'm also planning to go to the bank tomorrow to pick up my replacement ATM card and hopefully get "unlocked" from my online bank account.  I have been practicing the things to say, though I'm pretty nervous about the whole ordeal.  I know I'll survive either way, and if I need to I can always drag a Spanish speaker with me on Monday.  It will be really good for me to at least try, I think.

Tomorrow's going to be a short work day:  a late morning due to the bank (they're only open 9-1:30), and an early afternoon since another postdoc is leaving and we're all going out for pintxos/drinks at around 6 downtown (and I want to go home and drop my things off before we run around town for who knows how many hours).

I don't have plans for this weekend after tomorrow night, but hopefully, I can make some!  Otherwise, I might just try to get lots of work done.  I'm submitting to two conferences, and would like to have some new data to present!  I do need to go to the big grocery store as well as go to the "home" store to try to buy some sheets and something not beige for my place.

Better day already ...

It's only 8:20 but I know today is going to be a better day - I feel more awake already than I did all day yesterday.  The weather is supposed to be clearer 'til the evening.  I'm going to get home in time to go to the grocery store.  A friend of mine is showing me how to put money on the bus pass.  And I won't suck in Spanish today, since I've already practiced some this morning.  :)  Plus, I'm wearing pink which always means I have a good day.  I do, however, feel like I need to find some good music to work to - if you have any suggestions, feel free to leave them in the comments (click on the "0 comment" link below and it should let you comment)!

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Once again, I forgot to hit "post".  But it's okay because I had something else to say!

The busses here have televisions on them which show ads, where the next stop is, relevant information about the town ... they show where the "farmacias de guardia" are (all pharmacies keep Spanish time - except for one or two in each town which stay open for 24 hour.  This responsibility rotates among the pharmacies - and it's posted on all the closed pharmacies where the nearest open one is.  This is important since you can't even buy tylenol outside of a pharmacy here - and all medicine is behind the counter).  Anyhow, I can't believe I didn't mention my favorite thing, which is that the bus televisions have birth announcements for all of the babies born in the last 24 hours.  How cool is that?  Yesterday four kids were born, so far as I could tell on the tv - two Xabiers among them (pronounced "shah-bee-air").  I feel like every little boy I see here is called Xabier, which I sort of love because the nickname is "Xabi" (Shah-bee).  Too cute.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Update

As if this day weren't already enough, I ran out to the grocery store to get some flour and maybe some fresh bread so I could cook a recipe and they're closed.  They're not supposed to close 'til 9, but they're closed.  I'm getting tired of not being able to find the ingredients I want and not really being able to cook.  There are only so many variations on "lemon chicken" and "fish with lemon sauce" that I can make.  Boo to Spanish grocery stores today!
Here's the part where I feel like a stupid foreigner.

So.  The first time I tried to use my ATM card (last week) it got eaten by the ATM.  When I got my bank account they gave me a PIN (4 numbers) and a Signature (8 letters).  We used a computer to change my PIN and my Signature, so I assumed that what worked to access my account online, would work to access my account at the ATM.  No such luck.  Apparently, I didn't really change the PIN ... or didn't change the right PIN ... or something.

THEN, I got my bus card today and I saw online that you could transfer funds online and then just go to the ATM to activate the bus card.  This was preferable because I have a dictionary and translation software at home and no Spaniards looking at me like a crazy person poking around on the ATM.  In order to do this you need to use your Signature.  So, I tried both the Signature I thought I was using and the Signature they gave me ... and got locked out of my online account.  Awesome.

So now, I have to go to "my" branch (you can't just go to any branch - you have to go to the one the assign you to) to pick up a new ATM card and to get my online account unlocked.  I'm scared to even try to load the bus card at an ATM because I don't want that to get eaten to - but I am super anxious to be able to pay way less for my bus rides.  I'm also anxious because I have no clue where to put my card when I get on the bus.  There are 3 different machines for 3 different types of cards.  I think I know which one mine goes to, but who knows.  I also thought I had changed my PIN and apparently I didn't.

This is the most frustrating part of the move.  The hardest part is leaving my friends and family behind.  But the combination of the language barrier and the culture barrier is the most frustrating.  It's not like I can just call up customer service (not that they'd be open anyhow) and say "Here's what happened, what's going on?"  I could do that, but then I'd have to deal with banking Spanish that would be very, very fast.  So, I had to crawl with my tail between my legs to the administrative assistant, who surely thinks I'm an idiot by now.

I was also totally not in the mood for Spanish class today (even before all the bank business).  We started class at 5, an hour later than yesterday, and I was sleepy and ready for a break, not for more mental exercise.  I literally could not think of things to say in English, let alone Spanish.

To top all of this off, I forgot my tupperware, my arugula, and my apple in the fridge at work.  I guess this means I have greens and fruit for tomorrow - and that I'll have to bring home two tupperwares tomorrow (that is, if I can figure out something to cook tonight that can also be reheated tomorrow).

Oh well, tomorrow is another day full of opportunities to make more mistakes.  Maybe I should just start thinking of these as "learning opportunities" instead of mistakes.

Grey

The weather today is making me sleepy.  I'm taking my lunch break at work, and I'm realizing that when the sun has been out I feel energized, but when it goes back behind the clouds, I get super tired.  It's either the weather, or the fact that I haven't been sleeping much for the past few nights.  While Peter was in California, I was getting up early after late nights to make sure that I could Skype him before he went to bed.  Last night I stayed up later than I should have (for no reason at all), and was really dragging when my alarm went off this morning.  I'm trying to keep Real Job Hours here rather than Grad Student Hours - not going in too late or staying too late - finishing work at home rather than staying in the office for hours, but I'm going to have to get adjusted in terms of sleep.  I either need to get used to 6 hours, or sleep more.  

In other Real Job news, I've also been trying to wear Real Job Clothes, which is going pretty well so far.  It seems like ~ half of the people wear Real Job Clothes and the other half wear sort of ... Academic clothes.  I've actually found that wearing my RJC makes me feel more productive during the day.  I also feel like I have to wear these clothes because I am pretty sure I'm one of the youngest post-docs and I get asked regularly by people if I'm a new research assistant (typically undergrads, or people who just graduated from undergrad).  So far, it's definitely a case of "fake it 'til you make it," since I still feel sort of ridiculous dressing like a grown up everyday ...

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Relief

So, I really, really do not want this to be a blog about work for many reasons, but briefly:

I LOVE MY JOB.  I really, truly love it.  I went in today for the first "real" day of work (which most people skipped - apparently, the Easter holiday is never ending).  I had a meeting with my supervisor, which was fantastic.  I got a bunch of work done on old projects, and started working on ideas for some new projects ... Overall, it was a great, great work day!

At 4 I had my first Spanish class.  They offer free Spanish classes four days a week for an hour a day where I work, which is pretty incredible.  I had planned to just briefly meet with the teacher to discuss what I would need to do to catch up with the class.  I talked to her briefly in Spanish and she told me she thought I'd be fine in the class (maybe even ahead).  The class went well.  I was nervous, but I understood almost everything that was going on.  The teacher is sending me a test to see if the class might actually be too easy - but we'll see how that goes.  My supervisor is also taking the class, and afterward he complimented me on my Spanish.  The teacher also said I had a great accent ...

Which gave me confidence to go to the market when I got home and actually talk to the owners.  Their refrigerator for their meat broke after the Easter holiday (the guy told me it worked all weekend - he came downstairs to check on it - and then this afternoon it just quit).  Anyhow, the chicken was being stored in their cheese section fridge.  So I asked him, in Spanish, if I could please buy some chicken breasts.  He then talked to me the whole time he was trimming them and slicing them thin for me.  I also managed to find some fish (although it is frozen).  I have also been looking for chicken stock and, miracle of miracles, I remembered the word for "stock" in Spanish (Thank you Notes In Spanish Podcast).  I asked the guy if they had any, and sure enough, hiding on a shelf behind some other bottles, there it was!  I practically danced to the counter, where his wife was waiting to ring me up.  She chatted away in Spanish while packing up my things in a bag (usually she makes me do this myself).  She even double bagged the frozen items for me.

I got home feeling really, really happy.  I even got invited to go out with some people Friday night, so I was even happier.  I put together some slides for another meeting I'm having with my supervisor tomorrow.  And I have Spanish again tomorrow!  So I'm going to study some more tonight and try to cook one of the things I cooked in Chicago (a super easy chicken with olives).  Hopefully, I'll have enough for dinner tonight and lunch tomorrow!

I'm starting to feel more and more settled, and I think having this job to go to every day will make a huge difference.  I really do love what I do, and I have pretty much free reign here to do what I want to in terms of research.

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I totally forgot to post this before I cooked dinner.  There was a lot of improvisation in the meal, since I don't have flour, cumin, shallots or parsley.  But I do have a lot of other delicious things, and I cooked such a tasty meal!

Monday, April 25, 2011

Tired of my long weekend

Today was day 5 of my long weekend.  Frankly, I probably should have gone into work to keep myself busy.  I got an e-mail around noon from my supervisor who was at work, but I had dreams of doing some exploring today, so I worked from home for part of the day, setting aside the rest for exploring.  Unfortunately, today was probably the ugliest day of the long weekend - both in terms of weather and my mood.  I think my mood was directly caused by the gross-ness outside.  I woke up to it being both cold and disgustingly rainy.

I was extra crabby about the rainy part because I did laundry yesterday.  Laundry here is (a) expensive and (b) requires lots of a coin I don't get very often - the 50 cent coin.  The euro coins come in a variety of denominations - 2 euros, 1 euro, and then 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cent coins.  20 cent coins are good for me because until I get my bus pass (Dear bus pass, please come tomorrow!), I pay 1,40 euro for each ride on the bus.  The bus drivers hate you less if you pay with correct change.  [Once I get my bus pass I have unlimited rides without paying - just touching my card.]  A lot of places (including the bus) will give you three 20 cent coins for 60 cents of change, rather than a 50 cent coin and a 10 cent coin.  So, I have very few 50 cent coins.  And each load of wash requires 4(!) 50 cent coins to wash and who knows how many to dry.  I say "who knows how many" because I don't.  Yesterday I washed two loads of laundry because I had exactly eight 50 cent coins.  I decided I'd rather split my clothes into lights and darks, than wash and dry everything.  Because I have air!  And a terrace!  Which is just like a dryer, except free! Except when it rains.  I hung most everything around my apartment (that's what an entertainment center, extra chairs, and a mostly empty closet are good for, right?).  Except for my jeans, pants, and pajama pants which I hung out on the terrace railing.  Which got soaked in the night by the torrential downpour.  I know, I know, it's just water, but I was still SUPER crabby about it.  Everything is mostly dry now, and my pants are coming inside for the night in case it rains, but still.  CRABBY!

I was also crabby because I forgot to put my key in the light switch slot last night and thus had no lights this morning until I hunted down my key and put it in the slot.  My key to my place is a lot like most European hotels.  The key itself just touches the outside of the door and magically unlocks it.  Once inside, there's a slot for your key next to the light switch - it's required to turn your lights on (mostly - some of those plugged into walls don't require this but most do).  Your lights go off a few minutes after you take the key out of the slot.  But, it's a pain. I'm also SUPER paranoid about forgetting my key, so I have a little note on my door warning me to remember it.  If I don't, I can't get into the building or my room and would have to call the emergency number if the desk is closed.  I'm sure they'd want to punch me in the head if this happens, so I'm trying to avoid it.

Anyhow, I spent the afternoon studying Spanish, trying to work, and being crabby that everyone in the US is sleeping and it's hockey playoffs and baseball season and very few games happen while I'm awake.  Finally, I decided to brave the outside and go for a walk.  So, I went down the hill into the town.  I stopped by the infamous Chinese shop to try and find a soap dish for my shower (sort of found one - not sure it's going to stay put), and a couple of full-size dish towels (since mine are more washcloth size).  I also got enough hangers that now all of my clothing is on it's own hanger (except for the hangers that are designed for four pairs of pants).  I also found a cheap power strip until I find a slightly better one so I can plug in my iPad and my bedside lamp at the same time, and a broom/sweeper thing I was hoping would clean my dust bunnies better than the regular broom I have.  It doesn't work either.  I have no idea what is wrong with these cement floors (not kidding - cement tiles), but they gather so much crap and refuse to give it up to any amount of sweeping.  What I really need is a Swiffer.  I saw one in the Super Amara, but I couldn't find any of the little pad things that go on it - which defeats the purpose.  Any advice?  I also tried to find a whisk, tongs, and spatula or turner in the shop, but had no luck.  I'm hopeful I'll find one eventually.

I also stopped by the bakery and got some bread, since every other shop (besides touristy gift shops and bars) are all closed still today.  I wandered around finding a couple of other shops I want to stop by later this week - one sells yarn, one sells home goods - yay new sheets towels, and something to put under my sink so my medicine and hair dryer aren't just laying around in plain view, and one sells my shampoo that I use!  I also found a store which literally made me laugh out loud.  So, in El Centro, there are tons of really fancy, posh stores and boutiques.  Right in the middle of these stores is a Carhartt store - except they don't sell any of the stuff I typically associate with Carhartt.  It's all pretty fancy looking jeans and shirts for guys, with some fancy bags and shoes as well.  Apparently, it's very popular here, which I think is hysterical, since they pride themselves on being so fashion-forward (another day I'll have to talk about the fashion in this part of Spain which I ... do not understand).

I strolled around downtown for nearly two hours and then decided that since I was carrying my loot from the Chinese shop, I'd take the bus back to my place, so I wouldn't have to climb the hill.  Except I forgot which street the bus actually stops on, and walked on the street parallel to it, walking past the cross street by about 8 blocks before I realized where I was.  At that point, it was stupid to turn around and backtrack, so I climbed the hill with all my stuff.  The hill is getting slightly easier, but I still want to die ~half way up.  The problem isn't the climb so much as how quickly the bulk of the climb happens, after you've already done a fair amount of climbing.  I made it home just fine, but still sort of crabby.

I also have realized that I definitely didn't over pack.  I have a lot of work appropriate clothing, which is good.  I do not have a lot of casual clothing, and am missing a medium warm coat.  I have a spring-weight coat, a dressy coat, a rain, and a very warm winter coat, but I need something that's more like a wool coat in terms of warmth.  Who knows if/when I'll find something like that since it's now "summer" in all the stores.  I also don't really have enough casual shoes or warm casual clothing.  I think Pete's going to have to put together a box to ship to me.

I think the real reason I'm crabby is that, coupled with the weather, the reason I came here to begin with is to work.  And I haven't been able to do much of that since everyone took almost all of last week off and we had the conference the week before.  Hopefully, this week I'll be able to get started really doing work here, and then I'll feel even more settled than I do now!

Operation: Start Speaking Spanish

So this weekend made me realize that I've been here for nearly two weeks, and eventually, I'll have to stop using the "I just got here" excuse for not speaking Spanish. As some of you might know, I hate being bad at things.  So much so, that I just don't do them if I have a choice.  But with Spanish here, I don't really have that choice.  I just have to be a grown up and ... Start Speaking Spanish.

I know more Spanish than I give myself credit for, I think.  I was just going through all my notes from my Spanish teacher last year, as well as some worksheets and books I have, and I'm starting to realize that I probably can hold my own in conversation.  But I need some more work.  Starting this week at work, I think I get to start Spanish classes 4 days a week for an hour a day.  I'm also going to try to watch an hour of Spanish TV a day + listen to Spanish podcasts/radio at least once a day.  There's no reason I can't listen to a podcast while I'm cooking or cleaning.  Then I need to work on grammar and vocabulary.  Unfortunately, I had to leave many of my grammar/vocab books at home, but so much is available online.

I'm trying to put this out there publicly, so in a month, you can all ask me how it's going.  In a month, I want to be much more confident about speaking Spanish in shops and around town.  In six weeks, I want to be more confident speaking to people I meet (and the Spanish speakers at work) in regular conversations.  So, those are my two goals now!  Hopefully, I can meet them.

In non-Spanish news, I'm also working on improving my knitting and crocheting skills while I'm here, so I may update every so often about projects I'm working on.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

My Weekend with a Spanish Family

Yesterday afternoon, I met my friend from Michigan and we drove to her house in Pasaia (about 15 km outside of San Sebastián).  Specifically, we went to Pasai Donibane, which is a small village of ~2000 people on the east side of a harbor.  On our way there, we picked up her husband at the track (he is a big runner, who I think used to do a lot of international competitions).  Her husband was very nice, but speaks no English, so our communication was a bit limited.

We parked in their town and walked through to their house.  The village, as I said, is very small in terms of population.  It is also physically quite small.  It basically consists of one street that has a traffic light at either end.  The traffic light is on a 10 minute timer, because the street is only large enough for one (small) car at a time.  At points it's impossible for people and cars to both be on the street, which is tricky because it is also the main pedestrian route - and the only one in town that I found that didn't resemble or hiking trail, or exist far above the roofs of the houses.  The street opens into a square near the harbor, and then closes back to one lane until the end of town.  The houses are all very close.  In fact, many of the houses actually have a common wall between them.

They live in a beautiful house across the street from where my friend's husband was born.  His sister and brother-in-law currently live in that house and his brother and sister-in-law live next door to that house.  Their house is an old Basque fishing house - it's very long and very skinny with stone walls and wooden beams in the ceiling.  The house is 3 floors.  The floor you enter on is where their son is currently living. The next floor has a small living room, a bedroom, a full bath and an office with a bed in it.  The top floor is where they spend most of their time, with the kitchen/dining room, living room/office, and master bedroom and bathroom.  This floor has a ton of natural light from skylights as well as from the windows on the sides of the building.  In the back of the kitchen is a pantry and a ladder up to the terrace, where they have a small vegetable garden.

After we got to their house, we had lunch with their son, who I saw 2 other times during my stay, and who said a total of 4 words.  His mom told me that he is "very quiet."  After lunch, my friend's husband took a quick siesta, while she and I knitted and crocheted (yes, I'm officially 80 years old)!  It was nice to chat for a while and relax.

In the late afternoon, we went for a drive with our final goal being Hondarribia, a town on the French/Spanish border.  We went there via the mountain route which climbs up Jaizkibel, which is around 1800 feet in elevation.    We stopped several times along the way at various points.  First, we stopped at a small fort.  A lot of families were having picnics there, and we went for a short 20 minute hike around the park by the fort to see some of the views it had to offer.  The views were quite beautiful, although it was starting to get cloudy.  After we got back in the car, we continued climbing in elevation, which meant driving into the clouds.  We stopped twice more, but the views were stunted by the weather.  We also stopped at a very beautiful old church, that has relics from a couple Spanish martyrs (blood, apparently, in very fancy vials with recreations of the martyrs' bodies on display - gruesome stuff).  We went into Hondarribia, which is another lovely, old Basque village.  It's actually a walled city - so you have to cross a bridge to get into it.  We walked to the square there, where we stopped in a shop owned by some friends of my hosts.  She has some beautiful hand-painted ceramic pieces done in the traditional Basque style.

We headed back to Pasaia by a route that doesn't go into the mountains, so that we could stop at a large garden shop.  They needed some things for their vegetable garden, and I was lamenting the lack of herbs (fresh or dried) available for cooking.  So, I bought a few plants (basil, rosemary, and chives).  My friend said she would give me some potting soil and some extra terra cotta pots she had, as well as some coriander to plant.  I am notoriously bad at keeping plants alive, but I am hopeful that I can do it with the mix of shade and sun I get on my terrace!

We got back to Pasaia and stopped by their church, which is incredibly ornate, before their Easter vigil service.  My friend wanted to watch the commencement ceremony at her alma mater (Alma College in Michigan), and while she was setting up the live feed, there was a knock at the door downstairs.  It was a cousin of one of their neighbors who is visiting for several months from Santa Barbara, California.  He stayed for a while to chat and we all had some tea. It was really nice to talk to another American about life in the Basque Country.  He loves to surf, mountain bike, and climb mountains so this is a really great environment for him.

After he left, we ate dinner - the first time I've had fish since I got to San Sebastián!  During dinner we watched the fútbol game between Real Sociedad (San Sebastián's team) and Athletic Bilbao.  These two teams are huge rivals, so the game was very exciting.  The final score was 2-1.  It's interesting because the games often start very late here, around 9 pm local time.  I spent a lot of time giggling at how incredibly dramatic the players are.  Soccer in Europe is a very dramatic sport, and I think this is especially true in Spain, where the players milk the cameras for attention, beg the referees for calls, and have wild celebrations after goals.

I went to bed in the downstairs bedroom which was a bit cold, but sort of nice and cozy.  I read for a while, and then slept for 7.5 hours straight.  I'm sort of loving the fact that every few nights I'm able to do that.  I still have several nights a week where I wake up after three or four hours, and then go back to sleep.  This was my typical pattern at home (due in part to a certain cat waking me up several times a night).  But I always feel great after a longer stretch of sleep - waking up is much easier!

I went upstairs around 9 to eat some breakfast.  I knitted and read for a while.  Then we decided to go for a walk/hike.  We walked down to the port and around the bay.  We hiked up part of the mountain and then took the path that goes above all the roofs of the houses in town.  It's great to have a birds' eye view of the town.  It's very charming from every angle.

We headed back to the house for lunch.  I'm not sure if I've mentioned this already , but lunch in Spain typically takes place ~ 2 or 2:30 with dinner happening no earlier than 9.  I think this is in part due to the later bedtimes most Spaniards have.  It suits my eating style, since Pete and I often eat dinner quite late in Chicago, but I am often very ready for lunch at 2.  Lunch was a big affair today with my friend's son, daughter and her daughter's boyfriend all joining us.  We had some tapas before the meal, and then had a Middle Eastern style feast with lamb, rice and bread.  It was quite good, and I was happy to have food that wasn't totally bland (or Spanish).  It can be quite hard to find good ethnic food here, which is something Chicago had no shortage of!

After lunch, I came back home, transplanted my herbs into pots and did some wash.  Unfortunately, the machines downstairs only take cent coins.  I had enough for one load of washing and drying or two loads of washing.  I decided to do two loads of washing and bring all of my stuff up here to dry on my terrace and around my apartment.  I'm hoping I can find a drying rack or a portable clothesline somewhere.  I can't hook a permanent or retractable clothesline anywhere as I can't drill holes or screw anything in anywhere.  If anyone knows of retractable clotheslines that work on suction cups or some other non-permanent fixture, please let me know!

I'm planning a trip to a home goods store this week to buy another set of sheets, possibly some more towels, and some cushions.  I'd just really like something that's not white, beige or silver in my place.  I do have some tables that are brown, as is the headboard to my bed, but I need something a bit more colorful!  I'm also going to stop by a local yarn shop.  I'm hoping to get some yarn to make a very colorful blanket for myself.  I'm hoping I can work on it and finish it before it gets too hot so I have an option instead of just a duvet.  I'm debating between this blanket and this one.  I might not do quite so many colors, but I like the idea of having something bright, soft and fun in my apartment!

It's been fairly grey the past two days, but I can't complain too much since it's been spectacularly sunny the rest of my time here.  The sun has come out a few times over the past couple of days, but it did rain like crazy last night.  The nice thing is that, so far at least, even when it's cloudy it is sort of bright out.  You don't need to have lights on, and it's not too hot.  Actually, the temperatures here today and yesterday are apparently much more typical of the area this time of year.  I'm a little worried about my coat options if it gets much colder right now.  I may have to order something for myself.  ;)

I am medium sad that I missed out on the sideria today, but I'll get an opportunity later (if not this season, then next).  I'm hoping I might be able to make some plans either tonight or tomorrow, but we'll have to see.  I do have some work to do, and even though the shops are all closed tomorrow, I can definitely do some exploring!

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Time for a break ...

As I mentioned yesterday, I had two options for today.

One was to hang out with the people I was with yesterday.  They were going to a town west of here for a beer festival (not really my thing) and then going out to a bar tonight.  Strangely enough, it's the bar I went to with the Basque girl who lived in Chicago the first night I went out here (last week).  Then tomorrow would be the sideria.

The other option was to see the woman from Alma, Michigan and stay at her house overnight.  I've decided to do that, though I may try to come back to San Sebastián in time to go to the sideria tomorrow.  I'm excited to get to see some more of the Basque country, since other than my very jet-lagged bus ride from Bilbao to San Sebastián, and the one day Pete and I visited Bilbao in the fall, I really haven't seen much of the area.  I'm also excited to be in a real house.  The woman suggested I bring my knitting and some reading material, so I am (and maybe a tiny amount of work too).

So I'm off to pack my over-night bag for my latest adventure!

In the Land of Expats

Today was great.  After messing around most of the morning in my pajamas, I met up with my two new post-doc friends at ~3:30 at the Aquarium and started climbing to the statue of Jesus.  We climbed up part way and I was pretty sneezy, due to allergies.  We got up where we thought the cafeteria/bar was, and unfortunately it was closed for the weekend.  We took in the beautiful view by the cafeteria and continued our climb.  We got almost all the way to the top and decided to stop in the little museum that is in the castle underneath the statue.  We poked around there for a while and then continued our trek.  We got up to the top and took in the statue and the gorgeous views of not only La Concha bay (the more famous part of San Sebastián, but also the beach in Gros.  This is the part of the beach that surfers love.  The view is completely astounding - I don't know if any words can do it justice.  You all should just come here and see it for yourselves. :)

After the climb we went back down the "mountain" into Parte Vieja.  We met up with another expat friend of my new friends who is from England.  We went to a cafe for some coffee and tortilla española (a very famous dish around here with eggs, potatoes, and onions.  Sort of like a quiche with mostly potatoes instead of eggs).  Then we strolled around Parte Vieja and ended up at a cute park that has a lot of ducks with kids feeding them.  After the park, we went to a French bakery for a small pastry which we took out by the harbor to eat and people watch for a bit.  The people watching ended up being great, because we ran into one of the girls' former roommates, who is from Italy, and her Spanish friend.  We ended up going into Gros (a neighborhood on the east side of town across the river), and decided to meet up with the former roommate later.  We went to a bar and sat on a terrace by the sea watching the sunset.  We ended up running into the English guy's fellow English teacher from South Africa and her Spanish boyfriend.  So we all had a drink together.  Then the Italian girl, her Spanish friend, and 4 of her other Italian friends came to meet us at the bar.  All of us had another drink and pintxos and then went our separate ways.  The two other postdocs had family plans tomorrow, so they went home, but it was only 9:30 (early, even by Chicago standards), so I went out with the British guy to meet some of his Spanish friends.

We met his friend Tomas at a bar back in Parte Vieja.  He was with some of his "cuadrilla" friends.  So far as I understand it, the concept of "cuadrilla" is very particular to the Basque country.  Basically, this is the group of friends you grew up with.  It's the people you've known you're whole life who you remain close with your whole life (regardless of where you move).  Typically, it's very hard to become friends with these sorts of groups of friends, but everyone was very nice tonight.  Unfortunately for me, very few of them spoke much English.  So, I listened a lot in Spanish (I understood most of what was going on).  I spoke a little bit of Spanish, and then spoke English which Tomas translated for me.  :)  We had some really great Basque cuisine - including tomatoes (which I normally hate, but were actually very tasty), some small mild peppers (also usually not my favorite, but very good) and then the chuleta.  Chuleta is an extremely tasty steak - and these guys, from this area, say this bar has the best chuleta in the area.  It was really some of the more delicious steak I've ever had.  After we finished there, they went on to another bar, but I ended up coming home.  The climb really made me sleepy - plus, I didn't want to be coming back here by myself too late tonight.

I'm still hoping to go to the sideria on Sunday.  I was also invited out for drinks tomorrow night.  The conflict is that now I have too many plans. :)  I was actually invited to stay with my friend from Michigan at her house out of San Sebastián.  I may take her up on that, since it'd be nice to get out of my apartment for a night.  That said, I'll be happy either way, since I can spend some time with my new friends if I don't spend the night there.

I also must talk about "besos."  When you meet anyone in Spain, especially if you are female, you get besos - one kiss on each cheek.  Usually the person you are meeting says their name during the besos, which means, I rarely learn anyone's names.  I'm trying to concentrate so much on not bonking my head into their head that I can't really pay attention.  This especially problematic for Basque names, which tend to be long and phonetically difficult for me.  Fortunately, I can use the excuse that I am not a native speaker (and that I am American and not used to besos yet) to ask their name again.  Plus, they all have trouble with my name, so they have to ask me too.

Everyone I've met so far is incredibly, incredibly nice.  It's strange here because even people you think you'd have nothing in common with, you do - especially expats.  It's really incredible to see this community of people that form just because they're all from places other than here.  The cool thing to see is that everyone who has lived here for a long time loves it.  It's almost not fair to say "loves it" -  they are incredibly infatuated with the place.  I met a guy tonight who has lived here for 7 years and used to live on the Mediterranean in Italy.  He insists that this is the most beautiful place on Earth.  He said he's lived here for 7 years and still thanks God every day for the beauty of the place and the kindness of the people.

In spite of the difficulty of transitioning here, in spite of how much I miss Peter, Sophie, my friends, and family ... in spite of all of that, I am really, truly lucky to be in such an incredible place with amazing people.  I'm not sure I could imagine doing this anywhere else.  So tonight, I'm just letting myself be grateful to be exactly where I am ...

Friday, April 22, 2011

So, maybe I was a tad bit dramatic last night before I got an invitation to go out. I sort of feel like a teenager because my mood can change in a blink of an eye, mostly revolving around if anyone calls me. So,apologies for my drama last night.

I ended up going out with a couple of people from work, and a couple of their friends. We went out for pintxos (like tapas) and drinks. For pintxos, you go to one bar for one pintxo and a drink, and then move on to the next place. We went out in Parte Vieja, which is the old part of town. It's mostly pedestrian only, and full of bars and rstaurants. There's also a square in the middle of town with a lot of outdoor seating. You can go into any of the bars around the square, order food, and then sit outside. It was beautiful out last night, so that was nice. After we had enough pintxos, we got ice cram (of course). Everything closed down a little early last night due to La Semana Santa, but I had a lot of fun. I liked all of the people I met a lot, so hopefully I can hang out with them again. Everyone is from other countries in Europe besides me, and they've all been here for a little while (between 4 months and a year and a half).

I even made more plans for the weekend! Today we're going to "hike" up one of the two little mountains over San Sebastian, Monte Urgull. At the top, there is a giant statue of Jesus, which gets lit up at night. It's supposed to rain, but maybe it will stop before we go.

Then, Sunday, we're going to a sideria. I don't know if I can describe it that well, but I've been told it's a Basque thing you have to experience. And this weekend is the end of their season! I've had a lazy morning, though I wasn't able to sleep in as much as I want. I have been trying to watch a little Spanish tv in an attempt to improve my Spanish. The shows I've seen are all pretty ridiculous, but I'm hoping to be able to find some dubbed American shows, so at least I know the situations people are in. I'm able to understand some of what they say, but I've found that turning on the closed captioning in Spanish is really, really helpful.

I'm going to exercise a little this morning before I go out for the afternoon, and I might even try to get some work done.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Thursdays ...

Maybe Thursdays are just going to be the days I'm in a little bit of a funk. I went into work today and a couple of people were there.  Unfortunately my supervisor wasn't making it up 'til the afternoon and I was tired of sitting in a silent office, so I went home early.  Which was probably a mistake.

I should have stayed there and worked and met with him for a while so I had less time to sit around being crabby. I've tried to keep myself busy, but here's the tricky part.  Normally, for me, keeping myself busy involves going out and going for a walk.  I got an e-mail from another postdoc this afternoon saying they might be doing something tonight, so I've been waiting around to hear from them.  It's now 8 and I've heard nothing (which doesn't mean nothing's happening, but still).  I don't know if dinner is being had later, or if I should eat before.  I don't even know if ANYTHING has happening later.  I don't know these people well enough to harass them to make a solid plan - or to hanging out with me before making a plan.

I think the real problem is that today is SO quiet.  Everyone who lives here goes away for La Semana Santa.  And the hotels are packed with people who don't live here.  Because my neighborhood is super residential it is silent.  I've had my door to my terrace open all day, and even then I only hear a car go by every 30 minutes or so.  And when I go out on my terrace I can see a few other people out on their terraces.  I've seen a couple of people walking and I saw a total of 5 people on the bus today.  It's really different than Chicago.

In some ways, it's a nice difference.  There's nothing wrong with silence and being alone (although I'm not very good at either).  It is easier to rest and relax here.  In spite of how stressful the move here has been, I find myself not terribly sleepy during the day and sleeping pretty well at night.  I also don't have the sore tension shoulders I often did back home after working (or just living for that matter).

I'm having trouble today with the "patience" part of this whole being patient with myself thing.  I want to meet people and have friends now.  I want to have new projects started at work now.  I want to have friends I can go visit and can have over now.  I want to have a cell phone and my residence card and my bus pass now (Soooooooo tired of paying in change every time I get on the bus!).  I want to be not afraid of the grocery store and to be more confident about Spanish now.  I want to be settled and feel like I have a life here now.  And I know I've been here for a week.  And I know I'm doing pretty well, considering I've only been here for a week.  I spend a lot of my time being not-miserable, which is pretty great. I know logically that I'm doing well here.


--------------------------------

So I'm posting this still, even though since I started writing it I'm feeling better.  I'm going out to meet some friends for the evening, which should be good.  Before I got that call, though, I turned on some music.  Which helped.  And then I read some stuff by one of my favorite authors, Anne Lamott.  She has some great lines about trying to let go of attempts to be in control all the time (my major problem in life). So, I was reading her as a reminder to, as she says, remove my sticky hands from the steering wheel and let life happen for a while.  And guess what?  It did.  And now I get to go out and have some fun.

To close, let me give you some advice from a graduation speech Anne Lamott gave that literally made me laugh out loud through tears a while ago:  "And -- oh my God -- I nearly forgot the most important thing: refuse to wear uncomfortable pants, even if they make you look really thin. Promise me you'll never wear pants that bind or tug or hurt, pants that have an opinion about how much you've just eaten. The pants may be lying! There is way too much lying and scolding going on politically right now without your pants getting in on the act, too."

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

I'm scared of the grocery store

Okay, here's the thing about the BIG supermarket.  It's super scary.

American grocery stores can go in, get what you want, and get out.  Plus I can read the labels.  Plus I know where things are and what things are.  Here, not so much.

But, I needed food before the town shuts down tomorrow.  So I ventured down Big Hill 2 (less steep, but much longer path) to the Super Amara.  So, the Super Amara is in the basement of this mall, and right above it is a fancier market with fancier meat counters, fish counters, fruit counters, etc.  The Super Amara also has these things, and it was PACKED.  Apparently, everyone had the same "stock up before Easter" idea I did.

I got downstairs and saw the line of registers, but no entrance.  One of my best techniques for figuring out how things are done is watching other people.  So I watched a lady grab one of the wheeled baskets (I saw no one with full-size shopping carts, but lots of people with the kinds of bags and carts people use to take groceries home - and a lot of people with large baskets on wheels).  She headed around the corner, down the hall, and into the grocery store.  The store is laid out very strangely and is sprawling, but doesn't actually have a large selection of practical things.  I got to the fruit/veggie section and noticed everyone weighing and labeling their food.  Of course, the labeling machine is in Spanish, so I used my watch other people technique and figured it out.  I got almost everything on my list, besides meat and fish.  The lines at the meat and fish counters were HUGE, so I decided to buy stuff in a package instead of having them carve it.  I need to study up on my cuts of meat, parts of a chicken and fish names in Spanish before I'm brave enough.  Maybe I'll go on a week day afternoon so I don't get too scared by being rushed.  I managed okay until I got to the check out line.  You have to bag your own stuff - and they are not good helpers.  This is true even at the small markets, but then I'm typically not buying as much stuff as I did tonight.  I was feeling rushed and the woman was sort of sassy, but I survived.  I even managed to ask in Spanish if I could pay with a credit card (yes, but she's not happy about it was the basic response I got).  Overall, it was a success.  I have to see if the other Super Amara's are any closer/easier to deal with as far as buses go.  I took a bus home today with all of my loot, but it is a bit of a walk from the grocery store.

I also really, really wish that the store had my favorite things in easier to find packages. I haven't been able to find broth (either packaged liquid or cubes) which is one of my favorite things to cook with.  I also haven't found any shallots (though onions and garlic will suffice).  There are also no fresh herbs as far as I can tell in the shops (even the small fruits/veggies markets).  I'm considering growing a few things out on my terrace since I have both shady and sunny spots, but (a) I'm terrible at growing things and (b) I'm not sure where to buy pots, soil, seeds, etc.  We'll see if I can figure that one out!

I had my first American food craving today.  Seeing everyone on Facebook talk about Easter (and hearing all about it here) made me crave jelly beans, which are nowhere to be found.  There's actually a decent bulk candy section at the Super Amara ... unfortunately, no jelly beans.  However there are gummy things shaped like toes.  Which is creepy.  And lots of gumdrops.

In other news, I currently have a Spanish keyboard and a PC at work.  Apparently, a Mac was supposed to be available for me, but someone else claimed it when I had visa troubles.  I guess they're working on getting another one, but it's sort of hard to justify given that they have perfectly nice PCs.  Unfortunately, a PC sort of messes me up.  As does the Spanish keyboard.  I think I discussed my issues with the @ symbol earlier, but that's just the tip of the iceberg.  The left shift key (a.k.a. the only shift key I use) is moved over slightly to the left, so I end up hitting the < key which is next to the left shift key.  Basically all punctuation, besides commas and periods are in different places.  There are also keys for ñ and ç which are jammed in and I hit all the time by mistake.  I'm getting more used to it though and I'm sure soon enough it won't be a problem.

I got my office key only one day after I asked for it.  I also got my new debit/credit card in the mail today (less than 48 hours after opening my bank account).  It's good to know I can officially bank in Spain, though I'm having trouble understanding the "young people's benefits" my card comes with - especially because the website is a combination of crazy financial Spanish and young people's slang.  I THINK I get discounts on trains and buses within Spain and around Europe, which would be great. I'll have one of my more proficient friends parse it for me.

I also got my two pairs of shoes that I ordered.  I got a great pair of shorter boots with a cute chunky heel that are cute and SUPER comfortable.  I also got a little pair of black mary janes since I forgot all of my black shoes at home.  I'm really happy I have them.  I still have a few other things I forgot or would like in my wardrobe (long sleeved shirts to sleep in since it's cold at night, cute scarves to accessorize since it's cold and everyone has them and thinks I'm sort of crazy not to, more layering pieces).

It sprinkled today for about 10 seconds at two different times, as far as I could tell.  Not bad considering it was supposed to rain from noon to midnight.  Tomorrow is supposed to be very warm, and sunny.  That should be nice considering it's now supposed to rain Friday through Monday.

I'm feeling unusually exhausted for 9 pm.  I'm starting to think it's a good thing I have a few days off.  I'm going to go in to work tomorrow, but I don't anticipate putting in a full day since I only know of one other person going in.  I have plenty of work to keep me busy - but I might prefer to do it sitting on my sofa. :)

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

1 week

Today was my first true full day since I got here.  First I had the conference, then it was running around like a crazy person yesterday for all my papers.  Today I got up and headed into work.  I left my house at ~8:40 and got to work just before 9.  After years of hour long commutes to Evanston, that was pretty great!  The one problem is that I do not have a key to my office (which is locked) or to the main office (which is not usually locked on days the building is open).  The problem is that the machine that programs the keys (they are combination electric smart keys and keys that turn in the lock) ran out of batteries.  And it's a special battery the center doesn't have.  So, like many things in my life, I was told "after Easter."

I put in a pretty solid work day - I had a lot of setting up to do getting the IT guys to install things on my computer (Praat, R, etc.).  About halfway through the day, I realized that I have a real grown up job.  People dress pretty casually, but in general, they dress like grown ups.  Also, the office is super quiet.  Because people work when they're there.  There's very little messing around (though I did get an e-mail in the middle of the day asking if I wanted to place a small "purro" [bet] on the Madrid-Barcelona game tomorrow night).  At first, I thought it was just because I share my office with two faculty-types and another post-doc.  So I stealthily walked past the pool where the grad students sit (they don't get offices but rather cube sort of things) and the pool where the research assistants/interns sit. And they were ALL doing work!  No Facebook.  No e-mail.  No PhD comics.  Just Praat, EEG analysis tools, fMRI scans.  It was sort of spooky, but no wonder this place is productive!  I think I'll like it there - I got a ton done today, which made me really happy.

Then I came home and ran to the market for some more food.  I feel like there's no way I can make it through this weekend with the amount of food currently in my kitchen.  So, tomorrow, I'm venturing out to the big grocery store.  This store is pretty scary to me because you can't just go up and pick out your meat.  And often not your fruits and veggies either.  Someone is there who you have to talk to in Spanish and explain what you want.  I might try to get some fish tomorrow ... but I'm not sure if I'm brave enough for that yet.  Regardless, I need to stock up.  I'm sure the place will be mobbed tomorrow (imagine pre-snowpacolypse this past winter in Chicago) because no one's going to be able to get much after tomorrow night!

I also think I'm going to try out a church that's right up the road from my house - it looks like it's about 10 minute walk and that it's a pretty small church.  I'm a little scared to go, since I'm sure it will be intense ... and in very fast Spanish.  So I'm planning a walk by on Holy Thursday ... if I'm too chicken to go in, I'll probably go back for Good Friday, etc.

I'm starting to get used to the city, which is great.  I walked downtown today to get a hairdryer (finally I can stop looking so disheveled!).  I knew where I was walking and what order the streets went in, which surprised me a lot.  It was really warm today so the beach was packed as was the boulevard.  It was really nice to walk around and people watch for a while.  I got a little cup of gelato to reward myself for making it a whole week here.

I sort of can't believe I've been here for a week.  It simultaneously feels like I just got here yesterday and that I've been here for months.  I hope that I continue to become more and more acclimated to my life here.  I keep checking things off my "things I need to be comfortable in this place" list.  I still feel really wildly emotional - swinging from being really happy to really sad almost every day.  I find that going outside helps.  Unfortunately, it's supposed to rain tomorrow starting at around 12 and continuing  through the evening.  It's also supposed to rain on Friday, and showers are possible on Saturday and Sunday.  So, I'll either be exploring in the rain, or enjoying my apartment this weekend.  I'm hoping I can get out to do some exploring as long as the rain isn't too drenching!  I know I've been lucky to have no rain for a whole week, but I'm a big baby about walking in the rain (especially up Old Giant Hill [it needs a better name]).

Monday, April 18, 2011

Cooking in a limited kitchen

My kitchen here is a bit lacking, so far.

What I have:
- ladle
- two wooden spoons
- chef's knife
- paring knife
-kitchen shears
- grater
- cork screw
- 2 non-stick skillets
- 1 small saucepan
- 2 stock pots
- corkscrew

and then a bunch of silverware, plates, cups, etc and a handful of plastic storage containers.

So, needless to say, I miss a lot of things.

I miss mixing bowls, and a whisk.  I miss a spatula, a turner, and tongs.  I miss having all the things I usually cook a meal with.

All that said, I cooked a really delicious supper tonight - with leftovers for either lunch or dinner tomorrow.  I feel like I deserve a prize.  And a shopping spree at a kitchen store.

So Much Bureaucracy

Today was the day that the administrative assistant at work was going to take me around to get all the various cards and things I need to be legal here (and to get paid, get healthcare, etc.).

I was supposed to meet her at 9:30.  So, at 9:30 I headed downstairs.  The woman who is sort of in charge here came out to tell me that my contact from work (E.) was running late and would be there in 15 minutes.  I asked the woman if she had my contract (lease) signed for me to take with me.  She said, "yes", which apparently meant "not really."  So about 15 minutes later E pulled up on her scooter.  And I realized I was going to be riding around on the back of the scooter all day.  She came in and asked the woman for the contract.  The woman's "si" to me turns into 5 minutes of a rapid fire Spanish conversation.  I understood things like "on it's way" and "the guy has to follow a path."   I turns out that of course they did NOT have the signed contract, but were messengering it over - from the building we were about to go to (ugh).  So we waited.  And waited.  It's 10:30, 10:45.  We got coffee from the vending machine in the communal living room here [side note:  the coffee from this little machine is dirt cheap and they have plenty of decaf options.  You also get to choose how sweet your coffee is on the machine.  Unfortunately, the least sweet coffee tastes like you're drinking super sweet coffee flavored milk - you get what you pay for, I guess). Finally, the woman came in with a FAXED copy of contract - not the original.  The original wouldn't be there 'til the afternoon.  Keep in mind, I asked them for this copy 5 days ago.  I thought E was going to kill the woman.  But she didn't and we headed out to the scooter.  She said on the way that she was pretty worried they wouldn't accept the copy of the lease, but it was worth a try.  So, she laid out what we were going to do today:  register with the census, register for my resident card, open a bank account, register at my health center, get my bus card, and get a cell phone. She said "we might be lucky and finish everything today."

So, we got on the scooter (I have known this woman for all of 5 days and we've talked for maybe 5 minutes before this - but modesty isn't a thing in Spain I guess - on the scooter we went).  We zipped down the hill to the area where all the offices were.  I needed 6 passport photos (taken in a photo booth) and some photocopies before I could fill out all my paper work.  So, we got the photos and the copies.  Then we went to the comisario (police station, basically), where we grabbed a number from a machine.  We saw there were about 14 people ahead of us, so we ran over to the padron's office (essentially the social security office) to register.  This was where we needed the lease we didn't have - and one copy of it was on the 4th floor of the building we were going into.  So ... we took a number again (2 people ahead of us) and E got on the phone with the people upstairs.  They were completely unhelpful and we our number was called.  We sat down with the guy behind the desk, who was not to happy we had a copy.  E explained to him the situation and he finally agreed to fill out the paper work.  She said after that she knew him from doing this with other researchers, or he might not have been so helpful.  I was registered with the census, and we sprinted back to the comisario.

We got there, and there were only 3 people ahead of us.  As we were waiting they cut off the line for people taking numbers - it was 12 and everyone who didn't already have a number had to come back tomorrow.  We got in, and filed the paper work for my resident card.  E explained to me that after 40 days, I'd come back to get my card ... this is sort of cutting it close since I can't leave the country and get back in without it - and I'm going to puerto rico in ~ 44 days.  Fortunately, she said that it is often ready earlier since they get shipped in batches.  So, then we had to run to a local branch of the bank to make a transfer from my employer's bank account to the comisario to pay for my resident card.  We took a number (again) at the bank, got the paper work for our transfer, and went back to the comasario, where we took another number (they make exceptions on the whole "no new number" thing for people making the bank transfer).  It took FOREVER to get in this time.  We got yelled at once for being impatient and trying to sneak in early.  We finally got in and gave them the transfer paperwork.  They took fingerprints (because obviously the set I sent the FBI and the Spanish government earlier are not sufficient).  Then we decided to go get my bank account before the bank closed (even though my health center is in the same neighborhood as the comisario, etc.).

So, we sprinted back to the bike, and went into El Centro and went to the main branch of the bank.  We ran into the bank and ... took a number!  Fortunately, no one was ahead of us in line this time.  We sat down with the woman and she determined that I would get a "young person's account" since I'm under 30.  I also had to open a foreigner's account since I don't have my resident card yet. Once I get it, I get to go to the bank and they will not charge me any more fees (it's 14 € every six months for the foreigner account).   With the youth account account I get discounts on group tours and other "young person's events", apparently.  The bank is also where you apply for a bus card, so I got a bus card application to fill out as well.  After more than an hour there, we left with all my bank account information, and the promise that my bus card would come "after Easter."  Then we went to a computer to change my PIN and password to sign into my account online.  A guy also showed us that I have a "virtual credit card" I can use online.  I have no idea when I'd ever use it, but it's nice to know it's there, I guess.  Then E decided it was time for lunch - we'd already been at this for over 4 hours and we were both starved.  So we went to a little pintxos bar and had a couple of sandwiches and she had coffee.  Everyone around us was enjoying some wine, which made me want some, but we still had a lot to do.

After lunch, it was back to the scooter, and back to Amara where the health center is located.  The health center looks really new and convenient.  After taking yet another number, we talked to a lady who got my account set up.  She assigned me a doctor who "speaks more or less the English," who is in every afternoon.  If I need an appointment, I call or go online, show up and go to the office number I'm given online.  The health center is completely free and covers everything except for dentistry, chiropractic and a few other miscellaneous things.  Hopefully, I won't have to visit them often (if at all), but it's good to know they're there.  I get my permanent health care card in 2.5-3 months.

After the health center, we went back downtown to get my phone.  E decided I should get a phone with a contract, because they give you the phone free (or cheap), whereas a pre-paid phone you have to pay for the phone and the plans are more expensive.  So, we asked the woman at the store who insisted that I need my official residence card to open this kind of account.  I decided to just wait on the phone until I get my resident card - it's not like I'm calling tons of people in Spain and I have a phone I can use for emergencies here.

So then it was almost 4 o'clock (6.5 hours after we started all of this), so rather than going into work, we headed home.  We decided we WERE really lucky because we didn't have to wait too long for anyone or anything.  Now I have to wait 40(ish) days for my resident card to arrive to the comisario.  We'll call in a month or so and see if it's there.  When I get it, E and I go back to the comisario to retrieve it, then we'll get my phone and change my bank account to a non-foreigner's account.  Now, I just have to wait for my ATM card, my bus pass, and my permanent health card to show up in the mail!

I'm pretty relieved all of this is done - though I wish the resident card would come sooner!  I'm ready to finish these other things now!  I also have to say I am SO lucky to have an employer who helped me take care of all of this.  Bureaucracy is hard enough in your own language and country, let alone a new country with a new language.  I would have been totally lost today and it would have been way, way more stressful than it was.

I managed to get some grocery shopping done this afternoon.  I know I still have at least one more big trip to make before this weekend to make sure I have enough food - my local market is totally closed from Wednesday at 9 until Tuesday at 9.

I'm struggling a little with cooking here (especially with coming up with stuff to take to work for lunch ... I'm hopeful I'll have decent leftovers tonight, but we'll see).  It's hard to cook for one person, especially with limited ingredients since I have yet to go to the real supermarket!  Hopefully, I'll be brave enough to go this weekend. I'm also hoping I can get ahold of one of those great carts that everyone here has, so I don't have to haul my stuff by myself.  My supervisor and I are both working on Thursday - apparently we can get into the building.  So I'm feeling pretty good about that - I'll only have 4 days to fill instead of the dreaded 5. I'm trying to look at these days as an opportunity to relax a little and be really refreshed to start work in earnest next week.

Saving the best news for last, I managed to go a whole day yesterday with NO tears.  I knew it would happen eventually, but looking back to last Tuesday (it's hard to believe I've been here almost a week), I thought it wouldn't.  I remember saying to someone "I wish I could just see a week or a month from now and know I'm okay."  And I am.  Okay, that is.  It's not easy.  And it's still not particularly fun (especially at night, and especially being away from Pete).  But it's okay - and that's all I'm asking for right now.

Congratulations if you made it through this novel.  I'm happy to have this as a chronicle of my time here, and I'm sure I'll be glad I have it to look back on in the future.  Hopefully, it's not too tedious to read!

Ay yi yi ...

Stay tuned this evening for the tale of So Much Bureaucracy - it is almost too good to be true.  Unfortunately, I have to abandon my apartment so the workers can install the curtains (hopefully this actually occurs - they dropped the curtains off, so I'm hopeful)!

Sunday, April 17, 2011

The rest of the day

I was so worried that today would be awful, and I think it's been one of the best days yet, in terms of adjustment.  I read outside on my terrace for a lot of the late afternoon - though I managed to bruise the crap out of my elbow carrying a chair out there.  I also managed to watch some stuff I rented on my iPad before I came.  I cooked dinner, caught up with friends + Pete + my parents.

I'm starting to reach for things and know where they are (particularly in the kitchen).  I put away a bunch of stuff that was still in my carry on bags.  I hung up most of the stuff that needs hanging up (although a lot of it is doubled or tripled on hangers because I have so few right now).  So I'm officially unpacked and moved in.  I only have a few more things I need (and a few more things I want) to make things more manageable.

One thing I want is color.  I have a beige couch, a beige rug, white entertainment center, white + stainless steel kitchen, white sheets, white chairs, brown (ooooh) dining table,  three coffee tables (2 brown + 1 white), white closets with brown interiors.  Grey floors, grey and white bathroom, etc.  I need something pink.  Or green.  Or blue.  Or any color.  I'm thinking about getting some pillows/cushions that I can then take out on the patio to sit on instead of the chair (which is too hard and also too tall - my feet don't touch the ground.  Even my two turquoise dish towels help with the color problem.  It just feels a little more sterile.  Hopefully either this or next weekend I can get out to do a little shopping in the 'burbs or at least with a car.  I also need to figure out how to cook for one person - anyone have any tips about Europe friendly recipes for one person??

Tomorrow is supposed to be Spanish Bureaucracy day (when I get register for the census, get my resident card, get my health card, possibly open a bank account, possibly get my bus card - after which the bus will be <70 cents per ride!!).  We'll see if it actually happens since I need a signed copy of my lease and my rental company is operating on Spanish time.  Worst case scenario - I go next week to get it.  It's weird, though, because my visa is only good for 30 days and then I need to have my residence card, or I'm here illegally.  I also NEED my residence card to open a bank account and to get paid.  Additionally, once I have my residence card, I get free wifi in my apartment (and most places in the city).  So, hopefully it will all work out soon!

Things About This Town

I went out for my wander this afternoon.  It got cut slightly short by the fact that there was a huge children's festival going on down by the port AND the fútbol game was about to start.  There were SO many people in the city center it felt like the Cubs game had just gotten out in our neighborhood.  I had also found a frutería (tiny market with mostly fruits and veggies, some cheese, a tiny bit of pasta, and a small wine selection) and a panadería (bakery with really tasty freshly baked bread, pastries, and often gelato) that were both open, so I stopped in to each to get some fruit, veggies, a loaf of bread, and a bottle of wine.  It's good to know about those options in case I ever run out of food on Saturday or Sunday, since both of the markets within relatively easy walking distance of my house are closed starting at 1 on Saturday.  I got some veggies and some more apples.  They have a kind of apple that I don't know the name of but know by site that is great - super crispy like a granny smith, but not as sour.  SO yummy!

The children's festival was super cute.  There were bounce-houses, groups of musicians playing, and kids going crazy, all by the beautiful old carousel that overlooks the sea.  Very cute.  

The football game people were slightly less cute.  For those of you who don't closely follow Spanish fútbol, last night Real Madrid and Barcelona played last night.  They are basically two of the biggest rivals in soccer - Barcelona, it is commonly agreed, is one of the best teams in the world right now.  Soccer is bigger than ever in Spain after their World Cup win last year.  Making things even more dramatic, from what I understand, they spent the last three seasons in the second division of La Liga (basically, the pros?), before being sent back up to La Liga this year.  This means they're playing Barcelona in a couple of weeks IN San Sebastián.  I'm going to have to stay far (far) from the stadium that day, unless I can convince anyone to go to the game with me.  :)  Anyhow, the team is called Real Sociedad, and everyone (tiny babies through very old people) was decked out in their Real Sociedad finest today, for the game against Sporting de Gíjon.  There were a fair amount of Sporting fans running around too - Gíjon is about 4 hours west on  the coast, so it's interesting to see so many fans here.

Since it's gorgeous outside, and I'm not paying attention well enough to write whole paragraphs here are some more observations about San Sebastián:

•  People who live here really enjoy the city.  The beach, the parks, the benches, the sidewalks, the ice cream shops are all full when the weather is decent. Today was the busiest I've seen it so far, but it's sort of great because everyone really enjoys where they live.  
• People walk incredibly slowly.  I am not a super-speed walker, but I walk at least three times as fast as the average person here.  I am trying to make myself slow down - or at least not be frustrated with slow walkers!
• People here are also much less racially diverse and also much skinnier by and large than Americans.  The latter is probably due to the fact that everyone walks all the time (up giant hills) and portions are much smaller.  I am not sure how this works though, given the fact that they eat copious amounts of cheese and pig products, and have gelato shops every ten feet.  The racial diversity thing throws me off though.  I've lived in Chicago for so long that it's strange to see such little diversity.
• San Sebastian has three beaches.  The main one (Playa de la Concha) is the only one I've spent much time near, and while it's not a nude beach, kids are pretty typically naked on it.  By kids, I mean up to and including about 5.  Then, they typically just wear underwear - until they're about 10, both boys and girls.  I guess this saves on having to buy a new swimsuit every year.  The adults are typically in various stages of dress and un-dress, which is weird for an American beach, but actually pretty tame for Spain.  I'm going to go try to check out the beach in Gros (one of the neighborhoods) next week.  I've heard they have great surfing there, which might be fun to watch.
• Just when I thought I had escaped the curse of "what neighborhood is this" in Chicago where I never knew which neighborhood was where or where a particular place was (with the exception of a handful of neighborhoods), I'm back in the throes of it.  I found out on Friday that I live in Aiete (a highly residential neighborhood on the hill), and I went to dinner and a bar in Egia.  Last night I was again invited to go out in Egia or Gros (both of which are across the river - which, like the Chicago River, curves, which makes it all the more confusing).  I've visited El Centro (the downtown/shopping/banking area) and Parte Vieja ("old town" with lots of restaurants, bars and some shops).  I still need to explore a lot of other areas.  
• I'm trying to figure out which church would be the best for me to try to visit during Holy Week - fortunately, the town has about 8 billion Catholic churches, including a cathedral (Buen Pastor), a basilica (de Santa Maria del Coro), and a convent within easy walking distance of my house.  There's apparently another church just up the street from here, which might be less scary than going to a cathedral or a basilica during the holiest time of the year when I don't speak the language.  And I have no clue what people wear to church here ... especially on Easter.  I'll learn soon enough, I guess!

Sunday

Today was the first day I had no agenda (and no wake up time in mind), so I didn't set an alarm.  I woke up on my own as the sun came up, which is much nicer than being jolted awake by an alarm - and promptly threw the covers over my head and fell asleep for another hour and a half.  For a few days I've felt like I might be coming down with a cold - between flying, exhaustion from jet lag, the stress of the move + homesickness, and being in a new environment, I felt like either I had a cold or allergies - or maybe both.  So I slept a little more.  I still feel a little sneezy and gross, but I think I'll be okay - especially if my new plan goes as I hope.

I bought an iPad app before I left called "Yoga in Bed" and it's designed to be done when you first wake up in the morning, before your feet even touch the ground.  It's kind of basic, but is a nice idea.  I did it this morning and feel way, way more energized than I normally do when I get out of bed.  I'm not sure I'll do it every day, but I want to try, at least.  While I was listening to it, a few things struck me.

The program is organized in chapters and the first one is called "breathe."  I was really struck by remembering that the basis of yoga, Pilates, and life, for that matter, is about breathing.  I think it's something I forget to think about when I'm in a panic or homesick or stressed or overwhelmed.  Once I get some post-it notes ... or tape, I'm going to put up some reminders about this throughout my house.

The second thing was that the woman in the program was talking about the "practice" of yoga and "your practice."  It made me realize that today is the first day I get to practice living here.  Before I've been all-conference-all-the-time, but today it's just me and my life here.  I know I won't be as good at it as I am at my life in Chicago (I've had a lot more practice with that life - and I was pretty bad at it at first, too), but I get a chance today to practice it. As a musician, I know the value of practice.  I read something in the notes for the yoga program today that I liked which is "practice makes progress."  I always used to think the phrase "practice makes perfect" was wrong - my more pessimistic version of the "practice makes progress" statement was "practice makes you suck a lot less."  And I think it's true.  Practice makes you better at things, but it doesn't mean you'll never struggle - it just helps you get through the struggles more easily, I guess.

The third thing was when the woman instructed me to "be gentle" with myself - to take care of my body and my emotions.  This is something I really struggle with, since I have next to no patience.  Relaxing, being gentle with my emotions, taking care of myself, and being patient are not my strong suits.  I am good at many things in my life - but these things are not in that set.

So upon hearing this, I decided to practice my life here today.  I wanted to practice what I want a relaxing day to be like.  So, I stayed in my pajamas all morning.  I read a bunch and stayed away from the computer (until now).  I sat on my terrace and enjoyed the fact that the air here is clear and easy to breathe.  I watched little kids playing on the jai alai court outside my window.  And now, I'm going to take a shower, finish the last bits of unpacking, unload the dishwasher, and head out for an adventure.  I'm not sure where I'm going yet - probably back to El Centro or Parte Vieja.  I might even be brave and get lunch by myself at a restaurant (not sure if I'm ready for this one yet, honestly!).  Regardless, I'm going to practice my life here a little bit.  Pete said to me the other day that there was nothing wrong with being by myself.  I don't think I like to be alone because I'm not particularly patient with myself - when I'm with other people I can be impatient with them instead. ;-)

I think in a lot of ways being here is good for me.  It's giving me the chance to live a healthier life and to practice things that I wouldn't practice if I stayed in my comfort zone in Chicago.  I get to practice writing for work, something I've always had trouble being patient about.  I get to practice feeding myself good food (it is almost impossible to find processed food other than candy in a grocery store or restaurant).  I get to practice taking care of myself by exercising in ways that don't feel like going to the gym (climbing the hill every day, for instance).  And I get to practice being patient with myself, and realizing that my life here isn't going to be wonderful all the time - but it doesn't mean it isn't going to be perfect in it's own way.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Things are looking up ...

After the conference today, I set off with the aim of getting to the electronics store when they re-opened after the 3 hour lunch break/siesta all the stores take every day.  I had a lovely walk, but unfortunately, once I got to the store, I realized they (like many other stores) close at 1 pm on Saturday - and don't reopen 'til Monday.  That's right - closed Saturday afternoon, and all day Sunday.  I am already imagining that this will make running errands tricky when I have to get everything done after work or Saturday mornings!  Anyhow, I decided to console myself with some gelato (there are great, plentiful gelato shops all over the city, particularly in El Centro and Parte Vieja).  On my way to the gelato shop, I happened upon one of the fabled Chinese shops - the best way I can describe this is a combination between a dollar store and a very, very small Walmart.  Basically, they have everything you could ever want for your home, for really, really cheap.  Of course the quality is also terrible, but if you need a few things, it doesn't matter so much.  My haul today:  two trash cans (kitchen + bathroom), broom, dustpan, garbage bags, dish soap, hand soap (X2), storage for my silverware (my apartment has no drawers in the kitchen - design oversight, but now I have a place to put them on the counter), another storage container for the rest of my kitchen utensils (cooking spoons, grater, kitchen shears, etc.), a hamper, 12 regular hangers and 2 pant hangers that hold 4 pairs of pants each (not nearly enough, but makes my closet slightly more organized), a basket with suction cups for the shower, two dish towels, a cheap hairdryer (I'll get a real one once I can get to the electronics shop) and a cutting board.  The apartment was supposed to come with a cutting board, but didn't - and I couldn't deal any more without vegetables or being able to cut meat (plus since the counters are brand new, I didn't want to destroy them by cutting stuff up on them).  Overall, I feel better about my place.  I was able to actually put things away which makes me feel a little bit more like I live here.

I also took out the trash and the recycling (thrilling, I know), but it's very easy and on the way to my bus stop.  Basically, there are four dumpsters - glass, plastic/metal, paper/cardboard/styrofoam, and regular trash.  The only thing that needs to be bagged is your regular trash - so I carried all the cardboard from the boxes that all my pots in pans came in when I moved in, and dragged them out to the recycling.  Not having a closet of trash also helps with the whole "feeling lived in" thing.

I think one thing that's daunting about this place is the sheer quantity of storage space I have.  I have never lived in a place where I have so little stuff and so much room to put it!  I have a whole closet that is nearly empty - more than half of my entryway "cupboard" is empty - though I might move my shoes in there.  I have whole cabinets in the kitchen that are empty, as is the entire entertainment system.  I need to either start accumulating things or find cheap/easy ways to decorate ASAP.  The empty, white space is part of what makes me crazy.

After I got home from the shopping/trash adventure, I was feeling pretty sorry for myself.  I had several hours to fill before an acceptable bedtime, and the time 'til I start work on Monday seemed never ending. I also found out that my direct supervisor will be out of the center Tuesday and Wednesday.  Since I'm going to get my residence card Monday (fingers crossed my rental company comes through with the lease!), I probably won't be at the office 'til late afternoon, if I go up at all.  This means I probably won't be starting new work 'til after the holiday.  I have plenty of old work to finish up, but I was hoping to have something new to throw myself into for the 5 day holiday break.  I know I already described how much everything shuts down, but what I didn't realize is that EVERYONE leaves town.  Everyone I had talked to in the past few days talked about the trips they were going on, and my supervisor told me today that most everyone is taking off the whole week at work. So anyhow, between this news that I was going to have a quiet week, and worrying about the cat (who is slightly better today, yay!), and feeling homesick for Pete ... I was pretty worried about what I was going to do to occupy myself not just 'til Monday morning, but also next weekend.

After being totally pathetic for a while (and having Pete call me on it - one of the reasons he's the best husband ever), I decided to try to make some plans for next weekend.  I e-mailed the girl I met last night (who will be out of town for some of the weekend, to see if she wanted to get together this or next week).  I e-mailed my Basque teacher from Chicago who is in town for the holiday to see if she might be available.  Then I e-mailed two other post-docs.  One of them is going out of town for the holiday - but said she'd like to hang out some time.  The other said she is going to be around and will be sure to include me in some of her plans - AND she invited me out for drinks tonight.  So, even though I'm a little bit sleepy, I think I'm going to go.  Hopefully, it'll be fun, and I won't go too crazy being alone next weekend!

Finally, I think I'm going to be in awesome shape with all the walking I'm doing.  I know I won't walk quite as much once I'm working more or less full time, but I've been walking over 5 miles a day, most of which is in hills.  I need to get a mat so I can add Pilates and yoga to that list and I'll be all set.  :)

I promise my posts will shift more toward life here and less about my whiny adjustment as the time goes on!  It's been really interesting to observe differences here in how things are done!

Conference brain

I have conference brain ... meaning I've heard so many talks and seen so many posters, I can't quite focus anymore.  Today is good because the conference is only a few hours long.  Today is less good because I have hours (and hours) to fill before I go to work on Monday.  Fortunately, I have a plan that involves trying not to obsess about Sophie or how much time I have to fill.  I'm going to walk to the city center to try to find an electronics shop where I can buy a hairdryer and an iron.  Then I have to come back and get some food at the market, and I have an exciting evening of finishing some reviews I have due this week.  Then tomorrow I'm going to try to seek out the "big" grocery store (where hopefully they have a trash can - though my friend I met last night was not optimistic) and maybe a prepaid cell phone ... we'll see how that goes!  Hopefully I can explore my neighborhood a bit more in the process.  My mental map of where I am and how to get from one place to another is getting better.  I worry much less about getting the bus in the right direction now - hopefully that will continue to improve.

I'm also supposed to go to get my residence card, my health card, and my census form on Monday, but the company with my lease hasn't given me my copy of my contract yet (and are being very Spanish about when they'll get it to me - "soon" they say, when I tell them I need it by Monday).

My fingers are still crossed about Sophie - I e-mailed her vet, who doesn't seem overly optimistic or overly pessimistic.  I'm hopeful that she'll pull through this!

I'm off for a little more conferencing!